24 May 2017

Review: Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream


I want to say that, some of the things I bought here are based on positive reviews I received on Instagram, You Tube and bloggers I followed. Scinic AIO Ampoule, Secret Key Black Snail Cream, Beauty Buffet, and so on are examples of products I bought after others raving about it but sadly fail to live up to my expectation. Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream is one of these "duds" (oh, dud sounds like a very strong word, maybe I should say "regrets") that fails to live up to my expectation.

I learned about the Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream from Snow White and the Asian Pear. I also saw it on Gothamista's review and several other beauty bloggers/instagrammers that I followed. Most of them give positive reviews on this product, except maybe for Peeping Pomeranian, so I had high hope on this cream wishing that it would work wonder for my skin!

And it was so hard to find a few months ago. Out of stock in almost everywhere. You know... when things are harder to reach, people tend to want to get it (which is why girls are told to play hard to get). The harder it is to find, the more I want it. And I saw it back in stock on Sweet Corea, I immediately grabbed one without thinking twice.





For those of you who are not familiar with Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream, it is basically a moisturizer in the form of bouncy and chewy gel cream texture. The name itself symbolizes skincare extracted from ancient Korean dynasties. Many people call it "hanbang" but in my opinion it is definitely less hanbang than Hanyul, Sulwhasoo and The History of Whoo. This cream claims to brighten up your complexion, increase the elasticity of your skin and diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Essentially, an all-in-one moisturizer with the benefits of anti-aging, moisturizing, and brightening serum.


The cream looks very hanbang and Korean though. It is packed in a beautiful frosted glass jar with paper "cap" on top. I think they will sell well even if they just put it on the shelf like that. People will buy it. Who can resist this kind of beautifully packed little thing? And seriously it is not that expensive either. Mine was RM 90 when it just came out, but the price dropped a few months later when I saw it again (my wallet is crying).



The cream has a snowy appearance and looks really bouncy, chewy and slimy. It looks very much like the Secret Key Black Snail Cream for me, but of course a lot more chewy than that.


The cream will leave a soft, silky, smooth and moisturized finish on the skin when it is fully absorbed. Since it is not tacky, it is perfect for morning use.

INGREDIENTS


Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Human Oligopeptide-1, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ceramide 3, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1, 2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae (Gourd) Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Fragrance

INGREDIENTS ANALYSIS
(CosDNA)


I think I found why my skin doesn't appreciate this cream as much. None of its skincare benefiting ingredients are in greater amount, except for the niacinamide. Well... my beloved IOPE Bio-Essence contains niacinamide as well, so does many other skincare products I am using, so niacinamide is not the reason why I will repurchase.

A hefty amount of ingredients here are what I usually call "the texture ingredients". They are the emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, solvents and so on that make up the unique bouncy texture of this cream. None of it is snail extract so there should be no animal ingredients here unless if you count honey in.

There are a lot of moisturizing, nourishing and skin repairing ingredients though, but in smaller amounts. How small? I am not sure. These include olive oil, sunflower seed oil, centella asiatica, peptide, argan oil, shea butter, ceramide, trehalose, calendula flower extract, radish leaf extract, rice extract, gourd extract, orchid extract, honey, panax ginseng root extract, and safflower seed oil. Normally, these are ingredients you see in moisturizing products, especially in richer cream. Centella asiatica is known for its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties whereas ginseng root extract even in small amount (0.5%) is found to have collagen-stimulating and complexion-improving benefits.

I don't really notice any skin brightening ingredients except for niacinamide. I would say that given the ingredients, this cream will offer ample moisturizing and moisture-barrier improving benefits. And it will also help to fade some hyperpigmentation and improve the elasticity of your skin. Panax ginseng root is also known for its anti-aging benefits. However, since I don't have access to the exact % of ingredients used here, which might just be a tiny portion like 0.00001%, I cannot be entirely positive about the anti-aging claims here.

PERFORMANCE


Unfortunately, this cream doesn't live up to my expectation. I almost finished the entire jar but was not impressed or anything by it. It is definitely very chewy, bouncy and soft. It also feels really moisturizing without any tackiness on my skin. However, it doesn't really retain moisture on my skin for longer hours. The smoothness and plumpness it offers is rather temporary, which is why you are advised to use it in the morning instead of at night. I have normal to dry skin without any serious skin concerns. My major issue is my sun spots and freckles. I didn't notice any improvements in my freckles, sun spots and even skin elasticity after using. My skin is slightly "tighter" and firmer but the feeling goes away after the cream is absorbed into my skin. I think this whole firming sensation is inspired by memory gel type products which firms up our skin using its unique texture and technology, but the effects are not that obvious. Maybe I need it use it for longer and more consistently to see more results but so far what I get are rather disappointing despite the raves.

CONCLUSION

Pros:
- beautiful packaging
- unique memory gel texture
- reasonably priced (RM 50-100)
- pretty moisturizing

Cons:
- does not live up to its claimed benefits
- skincare-benefiting ingredients in rather low quantity
- has odd smell (gets unpleasant over time, a bit fruity a bit melon-like and even a bit cottony, nothing ginseng or hanbang)
- cannot hold moisture for longer hours

packaging: ★★★★☆
scent: ☆
texture: ★★★☆
ingredients: ★★★☆
performance - moisturizing: ★★★☆
performance - brightening: ☆
performance - elasticity-improving/fine lines diminishing: ★★★☆ (temporarily)
general impression: ★★★ (neither good nor bad, won't repurchase)

You can get this from: Sweet Corea | RoseRoseShop
[Disclaimer] This is NOT a sponsored review. Products are purchased with my own money. All copy right of contents and images in this article is strictly mine.
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